Charleston is a large container port on a vast harbour and waterways system. Two pilots came aboard to direct the ship away from the dock. One left with the tugs and the other once under the stunning suspension bridge in open waters, with the speedy pilot boat coming alongside to to pick him up from the gangway and rope ladder. The Captain had forewarned me of the formality of the bridge when a pilot is aboard, each order for steering, controls and conversation are recorded in a "blackbox flight recorder" equivalent - (this is actually a bright orange drum on the bridge roof deck).
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Here the Captain and First Officer are in formal dress while the pilot was aboard, with a helmsman actually steering the ship under instructions. Most of the time the ship was on fixed settings so the officer on duty could attend to other things (lots of paperwork reporting!), while also having an alarm going off every 12 minutes to ensure they are awake.
International crew aboard - Captain Polish, Chief Officer Ukraine from Crimea, now happily Russian for him, 2nd & 3rd Officer Myanmar, Chief Engineer Lithuanian, 2nd Engineer Ukrainian ( from Doneska - also Russian in orientation) Electrician Siberian Russian, Junior Electrician Ethiopian, Fitter Bulgarian, with Cook, Steward, deck and engine room crew all from Myanmar - long tradition of seafarers and important employment opportunity. They spend 7-8 months at sea before getting 1-2 months at home, while the officers have different contract lengths eg. 2 and 2, 4 and 2 (months on and off). English is the official, common language, but lots of Myanmar and Russian spoken amongst themselves.
The first day out, we all participated in an abandon ship drill - getting into life jackets, hard hats and climbing aboard the designated life raft as above. Each person also had an immersion suit (oversized wetsuit with integrated feet, gloves and hood), which the captain had me get into on the bridge (fortunately without an audience!)
International crew aboard - Captain Polish, Chief Officer Ukraine from Crimea, now happily Russian for him, 2nd & 3rd Officer Myanmar, Chief Engineer Lithuanian, 2nd Engineer Ukrainian ( from Doneska - also Russian in orientation) Electrician Siberian Russian, Junior Electrician Ethiopian, Fitter Bulgarian, with Cook, Steward, deck and engine room crew all from Myanmar - long tradition of seafarers and important employment opportunity. They spend 7-8 months at sea before getting 1-2 months at home, while the officers have different contract lengths eg. 2 and 2, 4 and 2 (months on and off). English is the official, common language, but lots of Myanmar and Russian spoken amongst themselves.
The first day out, we all participated in an abandon ship drill - getting into life jackets, hard hats and climbing aboard the designated life raft as above. Each person also had an immersion suit (oversized wetsuit with integrated feet, gloves and hood), which the captain had me get into on the bridge (fortunately without an audience!)
I spent a lot of time on the bridge, or on the outdoor deck near my cabin ( private deck chair). Walking around the deck was a little precarious, but good to get out of accommodation and bridge area at times. The ship is 253 metres long, so provided a circuit. Containers form a ceiling above the working/walking space. In reasonable weather the crew were either washing down with fresh water or chipping, grinding and painting against rust. Only the fore deck and outside mini decks and stairways were clear for sunshine.
Aboard was a young female Colombian navel cadet, gaining sea time and navigation training. She'd hoped to go ashore in Cartagena as this was her training base and I was going to go also, but it was to be a short turn around in port on Christmas day. However, there were delays...the ship arrival and departure times are all pre-booked at the ports, and especially at the Panama canal where we were expected at 0500h on December 26, which meant top cruising speed of 20 knots. The Captain and Officers were constantly monitoring engine RPM, fuel consumption,distance traveled and the weather and as increased speed could add $10-20,000 of fuel costs per day! Safety of the ship, navigation, crew and other procedures was highly regulated and monitored by reports emailed sent frequently to the company as well as being directly connected through the digital systems on board. Planners ashore organise the container details - the First Officer in charge of cargo knows what is dangerous, how much each weighs, whether empty or full, which are refrigerated, but specific details about contents was unknown. Engineers and electricians also had lots of reporting time on computers.
Cartagena to Panama Canal and into the Pacific Ocean
Thursday December 25 Merry Christmas!
In port at Cartagena. 10°24.331 N 75°32.255W Barometer 1014 Pilot on board 1200. 1245 – depart after delays with technical something with electricians, maybe a ‘frigo’ unit (refrigerated container). Busy channel and waterway, protected by a statue of the Virgin which the ship has to maneuver around. Pilot off at 1345 – full ahead 160° towards Panama canal. Rolling seas on quarter beam, ship at 19-20 knots. Bright blue ocean, wind creating blowing water – took lots of photos of waves, but hard to capture power of waves and rolling. Rickmers ( ship management company contracted by Hamburg Sud) gave a present of platter of nuts,chocolate and box of Christmas cookies for all crew and passenger. Other wrapped boxes for the crew from the Seaman’s Mission. Watched several episodes of Buffy while embroidering – overcast night so limited stars when on bridge at 2100. Rocked all night – intermittent sleep. |
(sorry this is slow - I need find out how to compress video before uploading!)
December 26th - day 7
Arrive off Panama – on bridge at 0630 – very misty, but gradually see numerous ships as more light and we get closer. Count about 30 ships at anchor, busiest radar activity I've seen.
From GPS logbook – 0400 EOSP Log 34°.3N L 79°52.2 W
0410 rcvd info from Signal station. Breakwater time is 0730. This is important - if position and pilot time is missed, could mean big delay. Captain was very happy to have made it to Cristobal close to the expected schedule.
0742 - Entering channel. 8 Linesmen board – 4 for bow, 4 for stern
There are 3 locks on the Atlantic, Cristobal side – to raise ship to lake level. Takes 10-16 minutes to fill between each lock using gravity from lake. So much rain in Panama, lake levels not a problem. Very tropical vegetation – palms, banana, large trees. Railway like units move ship through - when lock doors close, cars pass along top edge.
1100 - 1st pilot off, other takes over after having rested in cabin. Proceeding to anchor in Lago de Gatun as a delay in locks at other end. About 10 ships at anchor here – scheduling is obviously a big deal. Pilot tells me an average of 28 ships in 24hour period are guided through. Has worked as pilot for 26 years, after 10 years on tugboats and proudly tells me 2014 is the centenary year of the canal being open. In 2000 it passed from US management to Panamanian.
December 26th - day 7
Arrive off Panama – on bridge at 0630 – very misty, but gradually see numerous ships as more light and we get closer. Count about 30 ships at anchor, busiest radar activity I've seen.
From GPS logbook – 0400 EOSP Log 34°.3N L 79°52.2 W
0410 rcvd info from Signal station. Breakwater time is 0730. This is important - if position and pilot time is missed, could mean big delay. Captain was very happy to have made it to Cristobal close to the expected schedule.
0742 - Entering channel. 8 Linesmen board – 4 for bow, 4 for stern
There are 3 locks on the Atlantic, Cristobal side – to raise ship to lake level. Takes 10-16 minutes to fill between each lock using gravity from lake. So much rain in Panama, lake levels not a problem. Very tropical vegetation – palms, banana, large trees. Railway like units move ship through - when lock doors close, cars pass along top edge.
1100 - 1st pilot off, other takes over after having rested in cabin. Proceeding to anchor in Lago de Gatun as a delay in locks at other end. About 10 ships at anchor here – scheduling is obviously a big deal. Pilot tells me an average of 28 ships in 24hour period are guided through. Has worked as pilot for 26 years, after 10 years on tugboats and proudly tells me 2014 is the centenary year of the canal being open. In 2000 it passed from US management to Panamanian.
Day 8 Saturday Dec 27 – in port at Balboa
1000h went ashore while the unloading and loading continued. Into the city by taxi, driver knew about the Meracato de Artisans – lots of Cuna Indian and other crafts for sale. Then went to a local shopping mall as outside very hot and sticky. Found internet and caught up with some email messages on my iphone. Surprised to find that only UD$’s are still used in Panama – no currency of its own, colonial legacy is strong - but happened to be convenient for 1 day shoppers! Loading containers continued most of night - view from cabin window, and bridge wing, watching stevedores.
December 28 Balboa to Auckland
Up at 0530 with engines starting. 0630 departure with sun rising behind gantries. 24 hours behind schedule. Counted about 38 ships awaiting transit through canal or into port.
Spirit of Singapore has 95% capacity of cargo, water ballast adjusts trim of ship. Given delayed departure, Captain awaiting confirmation that he is to try to meet the January 13 booking into Auckland, ETA 0630, which will take more fuel. ETA 0630 into Auckland
Ship carries about 3000 containers. Captain and Chief only know which ones have hazardous goods, which are refrigerated, not the actual contents. They don’t seem particularly curious either – guess when you repeat your circular route (Philadelphia, Charleston, Cartagena, Panama, Auckland, Sydney, Melbourne, Port Chalmers, Napier, Auckland, Panama, Cartagena, Charleston and Philadelphia) in 70 days loading and unloading, it all starts to merge. Customs and documentation is prepared on board, some from shore offices. Safety and making reports seems to occupy alot of energy.
Slow day for me – used the gym tread mill and bike and went for swim in Pacific waters in afternoon (small pool only, but filled as needed by fresh sea water). Video captures more extreme sense of ships movement than was evident when moving around ( will insert once I can compress it...). Everyone feeling much more relaxed, catching up on sleep and pressure is off, after long Panama days. Captain showed me how to use the weather report system, I took screen captures and took them into Photoshop to start manipulating – was able to enlarge OK on simple designs, enjoying new tablet for drawing, but really missing being able to look up Photoshop help on line - program does not have very useful help built in. Am so rusty!
Evenings checking if night sky is clear and mostly spent with TV programs, Buffy and daily embroidery of impressions - this on a fabric I wove as a base for my log of the voyage. Some days only manage the date, 0900h position and notations indicating meals, gym or swimming, but will keep working on it. 60 stairs to and from my cabin deck to mess where meals are taken - useful exercise! Was pleased to learn that discharging of waste overboard is now tightly controlled ( for those ships which comply).
Day 12 December 31st – Wednesday – NEW YEARS EVE!
0900 01°01.7’S 098°39.1’ W
A BBQ party is planned. The steward, tells me it is everyone (crew and officers) together, a chance to relax ( except for duty officer on bridge). Beef, pork chops, sausages, kebabs, prawns & fish in tin foil, baked potatoes and fried rice – no vegetables! Can tell one is in male dominated culture (men world-wide do seem to have the primal urge cook on a BBQ!). Had several glasses of white wine and was feeling a little queasy next morning. Captain had organized a lottery for crew –envelopes with US$ 100, 80, 50, 20, and bottles of nuts, body lotion, deodorant from the bond store. Was fun to see the comradely mood – mixed officers and crew - although one table was set with white cloth as the captain, officer and passenger table. There was dancing by some and general merriment, New Year toast with bubbles, speech from Captain, kisses all round, then two crew brought out two guitars and sang to us - really well! Pop, soul and Myanmar song about friendship, which all the others sang along to - nice to see the relaxed mood, as normally everyone very serious and responsibly going about their work.
0900 01°01.7’S 098°39.1’ W
A BBQ party is planned. The steward, tells me it is everyone (crew and officers) together, a chance to relax ( except for duty officer on bridge). Beef, pork chops, sausages, kebabs, prawns & fish in tin foil, baked potatoes and fried rice – no vegetables! Can tell one is in male dominated culture (men world-wide do seem to have the primal urge cook on a BBQ!). Had several glasses of white wine and was feeling a little queasy next morning. Captain had organized a lottery for crew –envelopes with US$ 100, 80, 50, 20, and bottles of nuts, body lotion, deodorant from the bond store. Was fun to see the comradely mood – mixed officers and crew - although one table was set with white cloth as the captain, officer and passenger table. There was dancing by some and general merriment, New Year toast with bubbles, speech from Captain, kisses all round, then two crew brought out two guitars and sang to us - really well! Pop, soul and Myanmar song about friendship, which all the others sang along to - nice to see the relaxed mood, as normally everyone very serious and responsibly going about their work.
Day 15 January 3 – Saturday
0900 13°59.2’S 116°55.6’W 18 knots Up at 0600 to see sunrise - very colourful.
2000 - Offered to give artist slide talk, as many had asked me why I wanted to travel by container ship. An announcement was made - I hoped this is not a coercion to come when off duty, but lots turned up. I'd asked the musicians to bring guitars to sing after my talk, so not the only artistic focus. Prepared a slide talk with more about family sailing and places as a child and as a means hopefully of entertaining beyond my artwork. Most interest was in the embroidery scroll log - they understood why I was writing daily positions and recognizing elements on board I was interpreting. Captain asked for a section to hang in the recreation room, I said I would consider a swap for a future trip! Had more conversations with various crew after this - some involved with textiles in Myanmar, one whose wife is a professor and comparing some of the issues faced in each university.
0900 13°59.2’S 116°55.6’W 18 knots Up at 0600 to see sunrise - very colourful.
2000 - Offered to give artist slide talk, as many had asked me why I wanted to travel by container ship. An announcement was made - I hoped this is not a coercion to come when off duty, but lots turned up. I'd asked the musicians to bring guitars to sing after my talk, so not the only artistic focus. Prepared a slide talk with more about family sailing and places as a child and as a means hopefully of entertaining beyond my artwork. Most interest was in the embroidery scroll log - they understood why I was writing daily positions and recognizing elements on board I was interpreting. Captain asked for a section to hang in the recreation room, I said I would consider a swap for a future trip! Had more conversations with various crew after this - some involved with textiles in Myanmar, one whose wife is a professor and comparing some of the issues faced in each university.
Day 17 January 5, 2015- Monday
0900 21°52’ S 130°06’ W 9.4 knots.
First day I am feeling restless - seas flat, weather consistently warm, beautiful sunsets and full moon. Had a day or reading, finished book, need to be more disciplined on digital and drawing tasks.
Captain explained engine tests being conducted this morning – something to do with the different oils that can be burned in US waters versus elsewhere – cost factors once again, along with sulfur levels. Ship engine stopped, then slow forward, then back up to 18.5 knots. Sea is incredible dark blue, started with clear sky but has gradually become more overcast. Went forward and drew on the bow deck and shot some interesting footage of the water passing over the bulb and also as a vortex feeling with contrasts of dark blue and white water. Can imagine it really large – possibly even as a backdrop for collage of other images. We had a number of sea birds on the mast for 5 or 6 days out of Panama, resting at night and circling around in the day, but they have all disappeared now.
Day 19 January 8 – Thursday
0900 30°21.4’S 152°50.8’ W 18.2 kts
1500 Had tour of engine room with 2nd Engineer. Overwhelming noise and scale - control room cool and reasonably quiet - ear protectors needed most everywhere else. Impressive number of engines, generators, water treatment (desalination), pipes, control room, organization of workbenches, tools etc. Interesting textures of metal screens, pipe work, etc – took lots of photos. Separate room for rudder housing – can see large shaft with grease, another for CO2 canisters, with a floor lifted to show me the propeller shaft turning. Lots of pipes everywhere – makes sense when there is so much domestic plumbing and servicing of cabins, let alone all the needs of the engines! Maintenance was constantly occurring - five extra fitters, welders and engineers had been aboard until Panama as some new pipe work was being installed as we went along.
0900 30°21.4’S 152°50.8’ W 18.2 kts
1500 Had tour of engine room with 2nd Engineer. Overwhelming noise and scale - control room cool and reasonably quiet - ear protectors needed most everywhere else. Impressive number of engines, generators, water treatment (desalination), pipes, control room, organization of workbenches, tools etc. Interesting textures of metal screens, pipe work, etc – took lots of photos. Separate room for rudder housing – can see large shaft with grease, another for CO2 canisters, with a floor lifted to show me the propeller shaft turning. Lots of pipes everywhere – makes sense when there is so much domestic plumbing and servicing of cabins, let alone all the needs of the engines! Maintenance was constantly occurring - five extra fitters, welders and engineers had been aboard until Panama as some new pipe work was being installed as we went along.
January 10th – Saturday (No Jan 9th due to crossing international date line)
Every second day, clocks were put back 1 hour, until we reached international date line and lost a day to come into the NZ time zone. Clocks on board all centrally controlled to avoid confusion on schedules. Captain said it was arbitrary what day gets lost but he tries to make it a weekday for a lost day, and a weekend extra day when going in opposite direction, to benefit the crew.
Getting emails of crew and waivers for use of photographs I’ve taken, to use for a project around seafarer labour and ship life.
Have a series of screen captures from the Bon Voyage Service 6.0 weather software which maps the changes in pressure, currents and winds.
0900 30°01.55’ S 161°38.2’W 22° outside temp. 18.6 kt 1005 BM pressure
Will be hitting edge of low pressure area this evening – Captain changed course yesterday to avoid the likely worst of it – predictions of movement hard to know too far in advance - 4m swell likely overnight. Full power ahead – currents and wind strength affecting distance traveled. Started getting rough 4-5pm – Chief O told me I could no longer wander outside - bridge wings excepted. Wind fierce when out there. Was on bridge from 0300 to 0600 as the jolting kept me awake and thought I might as well see the daylight in. Wind up to 45knots, high waves crashing, patchy night sky, Southern Cross very bright.
Rough most of day – pitching, vibrations and jolting rather than rolling, started improving by later afternoon. Napped and read all day - could not do much else.
12 January Monday Arrive to Auckland tomorrow.
0900 34°37.4’ S 178°22.6’ W 19.9 knots, 82 RPM, 20° sunny no wind, blue skies.
Feeling pretty useless as I wander the deck – everyone else working at cleaning up and preparing for Auckland. My job will be to pack personal items only…. have enjoyed my cabin as space of retreat and life aboard, but am also looking forward to seeing family and friends and taking walks on something other than steel!
0900 34°37.4’ S 178°22.6’ W 19.9 knots, 82 RPM, 20° sunny no wind, blue skies.
Feeling pretty useless as I wander the deck – everyone else working at cleaning up and preparing for Auckland. My job will be to pack personal items only…. have enjoyed my cabin as space of retreat and life aboard, but am also looking forward to seeing family and friends and taking walks on something other than steel!
Will post pictures of the embroidery in due course.
I booked my trip through Hamish Jamieson, who was was very helpful in making arrangements and keeping me informed. http://www.freightertravel.co.nz/ |